Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Hello Pacific Perserverence
Konichiwa Tokyo: Domo Arigatou Gozaimashita Shiyomi!
I couldn't wait to get off the ship in Yokohama only to get back on again. Shiyomi Rakue, a friend of mine from grad school at Tulane came to meet me in port and it was my pleasure to spend most of my time in Tokyo hanging out with her and letting her show me around her hometown. We started the time with my giving her a tour of the ship. She was suitably impressed. One of the best things about showing a new person around the ship is that it refreshes it, giving you a chance to see it with new eyes. That actually turned out to be an invaluable gift. Domo arigatou gozaimashita Shiyomi! (I would say this over and over again during my time in Tokyo...)
I loved everything about Tokyo-- the skyline, the look, the vibe, the people. I was alive there, electric. It was a pleasure to just walk the streets. It's so much more polite, quieter, and cleaner than any other major city that I've ever been to. Best things about Japan include:
1) Electric Toilets! The one in my hotel had a remote! It allowed you to control the temp, pressure, and placement of the squirty bidet bum cleaner attached to the side. Easy peasy! I grew to love it :)
2) Fashion! Tokyo street fashion is amazing to see in effect. So many people are walking fashion plates that I immediately stepped up my game. I got lots of compliments too. This is the place for those big, done, falsie eyes and color saturated lips. It helped that I had a fatty asymmetrical braided style. I think I've found one of my signature looks.
3) The subway! I loved navigating the subways in Tokyo. They were challenging and confusing, but once I got it... the city opened to me like a flower. I spent an entire day alone sightseeing after buying an all day pass. It's the kind of city where that kind of experience is not only safe, but it shouldn't be missed.
4) Food! Even I, the seafood allergic, had amazingly good food. Shiyomi took me to a traditional Japanese restaurant that served only chicken. There I tried sake and wasabi for the first time ever in my life with no danger of allergic reaction.
5) The sights! Tokyo Tower, Odaiba Island, the Emperor's Palace, Mitsui Museum, Zojo-ji temple, Asakura, Harajuku, Roponggi, Shibuya ... the list goes on and on. Each and every place I visited taught me a lesson and made my jaw drop. Even crossing the street in some places was an education.
The worst things about Tokyo include
1) No way to access your money. No ATMs serve international bank cards exept the ones in the post office. You can imagine the inconvenience. Also, there is a 10,000 Yen limit to withdrawals. This is roughly 100$. Boo.
2) Smoking. Everyone does, and they can do it anywhere. Imagine the "no-smoking section" setup of the 50s in the US. That's how it is there. Boo.
3) Expensive cabs + the subway closing early = no going out late at night. Picture this. You want to go out and expereince Tokyo nightlife. But the subway closes early, like at 11 pm. Most clubs really start popping at 12 am or later. What's your solution? Cabs, of course. Except these cost 10$ every 2 blocks. Boo.
4) Expensive in general. Prices in japan generally run 2 to 3 times what you would pay in the US. For everything, even a combo meal at Mcdonald's. ($7 for a double cheeseburger meal that costs $3.50 in the US) BOOOOOOO!!!
I loved everything about Tokyo-- the skyline, the look, the vibe, the people. I was alive there, electric. It was a pleasure to just walk the streets. It's so much more polite, quieter, and cleaner than any other major city that I've ever been to. Best things about Japan include:
1) Electric Toilets! The one in my hotel had a remote! It allowed you to control the temp, pressure, and placement of the squirty bidet bum cleaner attached to the side. Easy peasy! I grew to love it :)
2) Fashion! Tokyo street fashion is amazing to see in effect. So many people are walking fashion plates that I immediately stepped up my game. I got lots of compliments too. This is the place for those big, done, falsie eyes and color saturated lips. It helped that I had a fatty asymmetrical braided style. I think I've found one of my signature looks.
3) The subway! I loved navigating the subways in Tokyo. They were challenging and confusing, but once I got it... the city opened to me like a flower. I spent an entire day alone sightseeing after buying an all day pass. It's the kind of city where that kind of experience is not only safe, but it shouldn't be missed.
4) Food! Even I, the seafood allergic, had amazingly good food. Shiyomi took me to a traditional Japanese restaurant that served only chicken. There I tried sake and wasabi for the first time ever in my life with no danger of allergic reaction.
5) The sights! Tokyo Tower, Odaiba Island, the Emperor's Palace, Mitsui Museum, Zojo-ji temple, Asakura, Harajuku, Roponggi, Shibuya ... the list goes on and on. Each and every place I visited taught me a lesson and made my jaw drop. Even crossing the street in some places was an education.
The worst things about Tokyo include
1) No way to access your money. No ATMs serve international bank cards exept the ones in the post office. You can imagine the inconvenience. Also, there is a 10,000 Yen limit to withdrawals. This is roughly 100$. Boo.
2) Smoking. Everyone does, and they can do it anywhere. Imagine the "no-smoking section" setup of the 50s in the US. That's how it is there. Boo.
3) Expensive cabs + the subway closing early = no going out late at night. Picture this. You want to go out and expereince Tokyo nightlife. But the subway closes early, like at 11 pm. Most clubs really start popping at 12 am or later. What's your solution? Cabs, of course. Except these cost 10$ every 2 blocks. Boo.
4) Expensive in general. Prices in japan generally run 2 to 3 times what you would pay in the US. For everything, even a combo meal at Mcdonald's. ($7 for a double cheeseburger meal that costs $3.50 in the US) BOOOOOOO!!!
Hello Shanghaied
Shanghai was dreary and grey, with a constant drizzle and cold that did its best to permanently seep into my bones. I wasn't even happy to have the ship stop moving really, especially after the two days "in transit" that turned into a very timeless and much needed rest from the rigors of shipboard life and the constant demands of the students. But time marches on...
My time in Shanghai was unfortunately short and filled with inclement weather but I did manage to:
1) Walk the Bund. It's amazing how much that area is changing. It is completely under construction in preparation for a big year in 2012. I remember when I first visited in 2000. We were oddities and wonders. A parade of friendly freaks. That is no longer the case. No surprise, not as much curiosity. China is opening to the West slowly but surely, like a furled rosebud blossom. There was a 14 ft tall digital advertisement for Weight Watchers playing in the square for goodness sake!
2) Buy an amazing pair of bootleg "heelies". I saw a hustle man in the People's Square wearing a pair strapped onto his shoes and I just had to have one of my own. I convinced two friends to buy a pair also and off we trotted to put them on and slip and slide around the dock in the freezing cold. I busted my ass in front of everyone, including Chinese custom officers. We all had a laugh. I am sure that I did as much for US international relations as Obama has with his speeches. After all, who doesn't like to laugh?
3) Had a day of bargaining and shopping at Qing Po Market. This is like a small city of flea markets. I bought so much stuff! I had so much fun. Ugg boots, Fendi bag, winter coat. You name it. Even MAC makeup. I love Asia for this.
My time in Shanghai was unfortunately short and filled with inclement weather but I did manage to:
1) Walk the Bund. It's amazing how much that area is changing. It is completely under construction in preparation for a big year in 2012. I remember when I first visited in 2000. We were oddities and wonders. A parade of friendly freaks. That is no longer the case. No surprise, not as much curiosity. China is opening to the West slowly but surely, like a furled rosebud blossom. There was a 14 ft tall digital advertisement for Weight Watchers playing in the square for goodness sake!
2) Buy an amazing pair of bootleg "heelies". I saw a hustle man in the People's Square wearing a pair strapped onto his shoes and I just had to have one of my own. I convinced two friends to buy a pair also and off we trotted to put them on and slip and slide around the dock in the freezing cold. I busted my ass in front of everyone, including Chinese custom officers. We all had a laugh. I am sure that I did as much for US international relations as Obama has with his speeches. After all, who doesn't like to laugh?
3) Had a day of bargaining and shopping at Qing Po Market. This is like a small city of flea markets. I bought so much stuff! I had so much fun. Ugg boots, Fendi bag, winter coat. You name it. Even MAC makeup. I love Asia for this.
Hello In Transit
I did the right thing, it turns out. I've really enjoyed this time. I slept in, got a day of spa treatments (I shouldn't have spent the money but it was still less than it would have cost to travel and eat in China for two days.), enjoyed a sit down meal, dressed for dinner twice, and attended an awesome FREE karaoke party. it was maganificent, and I'll be sad to see it end frankly.
Speaking of karaoke parties, this one was my first pleasant introduction to the experience. I sang several songs -- sang alone, in a duo, and with a group. I think my aversion to karaoke has been cured! What a great side benefit.
Hello Hong Kong
Hello Hong Kong. I honestly didn't know what to expect when I visited Hong Kong. I didn't really know enough about it, I guess. I mean, it's China... and yet not China. I knew that it was urban. But what does that even really mean?
It turns out that this surprise was a good one. I LOVED Hong Kong, completely, immediately, and with alacrity. As it happens, I only had two days there, having decided to get back on the ship and sail for two days to Shanghai. I never really considered the option of spending the whole time in Hong Kong and flying to Shanghai to meet the ship, although now, in hindsight, that option seems obvious. I didn't even know that I would want to stick around until I arrived.
Without time to plan, to research, I latched onto the first fun option that presented itself: a day at Kong Disneyland. At first, it was just a cheap option for something fun (and a bit familiar) to do. But as the time to arrival in port got closer, I got more and more excited. By the time I was climbing onto the special Disney Resort Line train with the Mickey Mouse ear windows on the train, I was grinning from ear to ear and bouncing in my seat.
I spent the entire day schlepping around the park, amazed at all the similarities and differences I observed, too many to name. I rode Space Mountain 6 times because there was no line! Can you believe it? I bought mouse ears, watched a live High Schol Musical Show in Chinese, and almost lost 2 fingers on the Dumbo ride. (I even got a chance to see the Disney first aid station to get patched up -- luckily the feeling has mostly returned to my fingers).
The next day I spent in the ladies market. I have no idea why it's named that, as there were plenty of men there and they sold items for women and men.
All in all, Hong Kong was amazing, but all I got was the merest taste. I will be going back, and with enough time on my schedule to experience all it has to offer. That's the thing about this voyage -- it's a gateway drug for the travel addiction of a lifetime. I'll be back for another fix soon.
It turns out that this surprise was a good one. I LOVED Hong Kong, completely, immediately, and with alacrity. As it happens, I only had two days there, having decided to get back on the ship and sail for two days to Shanghai. I never really considered the option of spending the whole time in Hong Kong and flying to Shanghai to meet the ship, although now, in hindsight, that option seems obvious. I didn't even know that I would want to stick around until I arrived.
Without time to plan, to research, I latched onto the first fun option that presented itself: a day at Kong Disneyland. At first, it was just a cheap option for something fun (and a bit familiar) to do. But as the time to arrival in port got closer, I got more and more excited. By the time I was climbing onto the special Disney Resort Line train with the Mickey Mouse ear windows on the train, I was grinning from ear to ear and bouncing in my seat.
I spent the entire day schlepping around the park, amazed at all the similarities and differences I observed, too many to name. I rode Space Mountain 6 times because there was no line! Can you believe it? I bought mouse ears, watched a live High Schol Musical Show in Chinese, and almost lost 2 fingers on the Dumbo ride. (I even got a chance to see the Disney first aid station to get patched up -- luckily the feeling has mostly returned to my fingers).
The next day I spent in the ladies market. I have no idea why it's named that, as there were plenty of men there and they sold items for women and men.
All in all, Hong Kong was amazing, but all I got was the merest taste. I will be going back, and with enough time on my schedule to experience all it has to offer. That's the thing about this voyage -- it's a gateway drug for the travel addiction of a lifetime. I'll be back for another fix soon.
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